The day I arrived in New Zealand, I heard that Christchurch is the only place in the world where you can ski, surf and climb in a single day. The right conditions, however, kept me waiting for almost 3 years. Recent “polar blasts” have flooded parts of Christchurch – but they also led to some fresh powpow up in the mountains and some decent swell at the local surf spot. The long period of waiting eventually came to an end !
I meet my mate Nick at 7am in Sumner. It is still dark and a thick layer of fog prevents any sight of surf. However, the distant sound of rolling waves is motivation enough for us to jump into the wintry Pacific. We manage to paddle out between 2 good sized sets of breakers, and find us just behind the line up still within the fog. Out here, the ocean is calm and peaceful. A moment later, Nick catches the first wave and surfs off into the fog.
After getting washed in an epic morning session, we coffee up and head to Castle Hill. We usually spend our weekends bouldering up there, so it was quite clear that it is the place to do the climbing part. But due to a good foot of fresh snow in the valley floor, we decide to skin up to Flock Hill and combine climbing with some turns between the rocks. Lost in a maze of boulders, we navigate our way and try to find the climbs which are so familiar in summer. The place looks amazing in winter and offers fun skiing on very unusual terrain. We reach a narrow shoot – Nick gathers his courage and drops in. I rather “wedel” between the boulders, European style !
We finish the kiwi triathlon after 12 hours and confirm: New Zealand is the only place where you can have such an awesome day. It is also the only place where you find yourself skiing with a boulder pad and a surf board on your back. Haha
Thanks to fallzonephotography for the pictures and the good day out:
We had a couple of fantastic night-climbing sessions recently – take that winter ! Aside of being a keen climber, my friend Nick “Flashlight” Davis turned out to be a very talented photographer. By name and nature, he especially likes to experiment with artificial light sources. This is not only resulting in unique climbing pictures, but is also extending our climbing sessions beyond sunset. In this “hour of power” he has captured some of the key moments within the last month. Check out his webpage for some of his shots or if you would like to work with him.
The Cave – one of my favourite crags in New Zealand and its just behind our house ! It sometimes feels like the “Climbinggarden” back home in Germany, except that its a bit steeper… the routes offer great sport climbing on volcanic rock and are actually doable if you have worked out a decent sequence to “seeeennd iiittt”.
So far we climbed:
- Shrubble (26), a fantastic traverse on good holds (except that one crimp at the crux of course). One overhead move makes you really feel “warmed up”.
- Rubble (27), big moves between jugs lead to a balancy crux. A great climb if you like double heel hooks or heel hooks in general. Took the whole crew quite a while to work out a doable set of moves…
- Shedevil (28), long traverse on jugs lead to two distinct cruxes in the roof after a rest. Pretty run out to avoid rope drag.
- Gorilla Grip (27), the super classic line in The Cave. I especially like the clipping positions of solid heel jams. Thanks for the beta guys !
- Bogus Machismo (29), fantastic moves make this the NZ test piece for your stamina. I haven’t got past the last bolt yet as it is getting wet in winter, but can’t wait for summer to jump back on it.
Thanks to fallzonephotography for letting me use the pictures:
This gallery contains 64 photos.
“How did we blog from the field ?”
The Darwin Glacier is so remote that modern ways of communication are no option – because there is no internet or cellphone reception available. In order to send messages to the outside world, we relayed our daily updates via high-frequency radio to Scott Base. HF communication is often called short wave radio and uses the reflection of waves within the ionosphere layer of our atmosphere.
By this method HF radio waves can travel beyond the horizon, around the curve of the Earth, and can be received all around Antarctica and even at intercontinental distances. We never knew who else was listening on our frequency and we are very sorry if we have occupied channel 3 for to long.
Unfortunately, suitability of HF radio is highly dependent on solar activity, because radiation of the sun affects the wave propagation significantly. Sometimes we even had to relay our messages using the NATO phonetic alphabet due to a noisy signal or a broken antenna. The spelling alphabet is also a great way to come up with new nicknames…
However, the highly-collaborative staff from Scott Base (Ruby, Leigh, Jim and Dave) then typed down the message and sent it via email to my friend Tom “Tango Romeo” Rose back in Christchurch, NZ, where he published it as soon as possible.
Our field blog was a team effort of many involved people and I owe each of them a big “Thank You”. Reading through all the questions and comments now is very rewarding and makes this blog the “icing on the cake” of our expedition.
In this sense:
Charlie Whiskey, over and out !
How could you finish such an incredible field season ? With a C-130 Hercules flight back to Christchurch ! After a sleepless night, we left Scott Base to Pegasus Airfield where the “Kiwi Herc” was already waiting for us. The aircraft is originally designed for military purpose of the Royal New Zealand Air Force but it has found good use in scientific research support.
The exciting take-off from the ice runway was just the beginning of our board entertainment. Shortly after the departure at 10am, we flew across the Drygalski Ice Tongue (the floating extension of the David Glacier). This ice tongue is about 70 km long and 20 km wide and probably the most spectacular feature along the Scott Coast.
The noise of the four engines was almost as impressive as the horizontal temperature gradient within the aircraft; positive 30 °C in the front and freezing cold in the back. Sitting along the sides of the plane and looking at the piles of cargo next to us gave rise to a “James Bond” feeling.
After eight hours flight, we arrived back in New Zealand. Here, summer is a big difference to the winter wonderland of the last month. Our sensitive noses were completely overwhelmed by the smells of flowers and our eyes surprised by other colors than blue and white. Our great adventure came to a successful end !
The TIDEx Team safely back in Christchurch
“If you change the way you look at things, the things you look at change”
The observation hill is located next to Scott Base. It is where the members of Captain Scott’s expedition, that stayed at Ross Island, looked out each day for the return of their companions from the South Pole. Scott and his men never returned – they perished in February 1913 due to violent blizzards, lack of food and severe frostbite.
The top of observation hill plays a key role in polar history for over one century. Standing on the summit is great to admire the views, but a change of perspective shows a different picture. It reveals that the we have the weight of the world on our shoulders. But this must not be a problem, it is our opportunity to make a change…
Today we were able to have a look underneath the sea ice surrounding Scott Base. We would have never expected to see this amount of life just a couple of meters below our feet.
Sea ice is just frozen ocean water, growing in winter and melting in summer. At its bottom it is exposed to the cold, relatively low-salinity water flowing out from beneath the Ross Ice Shelf. It is here where parts of the supercooled meltwater coming from the Darwin glacier meet the ocean surface and are recrystallizing again. These tiny ice crystalls are growing slowly to the size of a hand while they rise towards the surface and get stuck beneath sea ice. This layer is called “plateled ice” and is home to a large variety of organisms.
Sea ice is thin enough to let sunlight through which allows algae to grow. This algae forms the beginning of the food chain, feeding crill, fish and eventually seals and killer whales. The “observation tube” let us climb below the sea ice, where glass windows allow an insight into this fascinating underwater world. It was the most colourful place we have seen during the last month and its surreal inhabitants made us feel like “sea-icetronauts “.
Plateled ice, algae and fish below the sea ice.